4g64 find

[Andrew7dg]

So I was at U pull yesterday and was walking around seeing what I could find. Didn't find what I went there for however I did find an Expo van sitting there with a 4g64 engine.

Transmission has already been removed so half the work is done for me. So after a couple of hours of work I through the short block into the wheel borrow and took it home in my eclipse.

So now I am the proud owner of this 4g64 6 bolt block.

I am trying to find links to what I have to do to get this working. However I am having a hard time finding them. It seems like the old links have closed down. If anyone knows of a good website please link. I will still search. I just keep finding pages on 2g 4g64 and I don't think that is quite the same thing.

I like the Idea of having a 2.4L block in my car for the extra torque.

I would like to know if I have the correct block though. Everyone talks about the hyundai block as the choice to have for a 2.4L. But this is the 4g64 block with the 12 1/4" so the trans should bolt right up to it.

Anyway I know that some of the people on this bord will have knowledge on this subject more then I.

Any input on recomendations on how to build this up would be helpful!

[iceminion]

Sorry the block is not usable. You should sell it to me, ill give you $100.

(just kidding, I just built up one of these, they rock)

You need to have the block cleaned, inspected and bored .20 over

buy and install pistons and rods, you will need forged pistons and forged rods. You will also need the balance shaft eliminator kit+install, 4g64 timing belt and cam gears

To be honest, you will be spending well over a grand to get the shortblock usable, possibly more like 2 grand.

[sleepydsm]

Yeah but he'll have a nice built engine.

And if you're gonna do that, might as well go big. Get ARP Main studs, have the main bearing caps line honed or bored. If you need to have the crank reground, make sure you have it re-nitride coated. Thats a heat treating process that hardens the surface of the bearing journals, the factory cranks come like that (although lotsa people swear some of the 2g ones were not, and that is one small factor in the crankwalk issue). And you might as well get one of those aftermarket main girdles. Blageo23 just had all this done, and more, to his 4G64 block. PM him for more info!

[sleepydsm]

If you wanted to be a cheap ass, you could probably use the stock rods, with aftermarket pistons, and if the cylinder walls are ok you could probably just hone it. I think the rods are the same length... but I don't know for sure. U pull R parts has been a great source of 2.4L blocks for my friends and I!

[iceminion]

the stock 1G big rods are rated to 380 hp in the 2.4, you will NEED to buy custom forged pistons for that block, the stock pistons for the 2.4 will put your car at like 10:1 compression, and the turbo pistons on the DSMs are too small to fit into the large 4g64 bore.

Dont cobble this together and throw a bearing and ruin your crank, the crank is the most valuable part of your find, you can build a 2.3 stroker by using the 4g63 block (thats what I have)

[JET]

I don't know who "rated" the stock rods in a 2.4, but that is pretty low. Also, don't bother with ARP mains, use the stock bolts. ARP mains are just a pain in the butt if you aren't going for huge HP (well over 500awhp).

The 4g64 is the same as the g4cs block, except it is missing one passage. There was a lot of talk about whether it was needed or not, it has been used both ways.

[Super Bleeder!!]

When i built my 2.4 i used stock mains. If they were good enough to put rau into the 6s they are good enough for me.

Motors by Gosh has a torque plate for these motors if you want some EXCELLENT machine work done at an amazing price.

[Goat Blower]

Also, don't bother with ARP mains, use the stock bolts. ARP mains are just a pain in the butt if you aren't going for huge HP (well over 500awhp).

I wouldn't even bother with them then. I'd only use ARP mains if you're putting on a girdle, or you have a damaged cap. I'd just get some nice new Mitsu main bolts instead since stock bolts don't like to be retorqued more than a time or two.

[Andrew7dg]

This is all great info!!!!

This is the kind of info I am looking for. I was about to go with forged internals on my 4g63 but figured I better wait. I am glad I did now!
I don't think there is anyway else to build this motor without forged internals. Even if I went with the stock rods 360hp, kind of a waste on a 2.4L.
It will be a long build up but I think it will be worth the extra time and money. Plus I like playing around with engines.

The passage, Is this the water passage missing on the side of the block for coolent or is this an oil passage? Does it really matter if it is there or not?

I know it doesn't have oil squirters but when you switch to forged, I don't think it matters.

GoatBlower, I think I have heard you say that you are detuning yours, are you going to keep with the 2.4L and if so whats your setup are you going with, if you don't mind me asking?

From what I have read so far, once you get the forged internals, the timing belt, and ajustable cam shaft sprockets everything should be able to swap over from the 4g63 to the 4g64 block. I know there is some trick on setting up the cam shafts because the lines won't line up. Anything else I should be aware of? Drilling any passages? Weird quirks?

I do have anothe question, why does everyone go with a stroker 4g63 instead of a 4g64? I would think it is almost easier to go with a 4g64 route. Both setups I think have to have special pistons.

For U pull having these block, yes they have been a great source but everytime I have went there all of them have been gone. I was just lucky this time I guess. That and no one wants to work on cars on fall going into winter.

I figured out why the expo was in the junk yard. I took the timing belt cover off and the balance shaft belt was shredded. I am thinking the origional owner didn't want to mess with fixing this or thought something major was damaged because of the vibration and junked the van.

Thanks again for all of the info!

[JET]

The only thing you need special for the 2.4 is a T-belt from a 95 DOHC Galant. The timing gears will be offset slightly, or you can remark the stock gears. I have no idea why people do 2.3's, a 2.4 is just as easy. The only thing I can think is they only have a 2.4 crank, but no block.

Just throw in some Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods, then you are good to go. You can have the short block all done for about a grand if you assemble it yourself. If you put a new case and all new T-belt assy on , then you are about $1,500.