Advice about bad bearing, rod, and crank

[xveganxcowboyx]

I just picked up an engine to rebuild. (link to for sale thread here http://dsmstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16256 ) I just pulled the crank and found a spun rod bearing. There's some slight scoring on the crank. The rod is smooth in the center, but the outside edges are a little chewed up (kind of rough, but no deep gouges). I'm looking for advice. Since it was recently rebuilt I had hoped to only mess with the bottom end and leave the head on and in tact. Not sure if that's possible now. So:

1: Do I need a new rod or since it's just on the edges can I buff the damage out or leave it (and thus avoid pulling the head)

2: What should I do about the crank? Can slight scoring just be buffed out or would it need to be bored? If so, is it better just to get a good condition crank?

[b00stcreep21]

Sounds like the crank will need to be cut. Generally, if a crank is damages like that at all, it can't just be polished out. But without anyone actually looking at it, no one's going to be able to tell you. I, personally, wouldn't reuse the crank OR the rod

[Super Bleeder!!]

Bring it up to Crankshaft Supply. They'll inspect it and tell you what needs to be done.

[xveganxcowboyx]

Thanks for the input so far guys. I was in a rush earlier, but after a closer look at the rod I don't trust it at all. I'm just going to have to do things the hard way and pull the head to replace this bugger.

I'll try to have the crank inspected. I'm leaning towards replacing it VS having it machined if it's not reusable.

Any more opinions would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions in the near future as most of this is first time stuff for me.



A some what related question. I'm wondering if I should get a new oil cooler for this thing. I'm not sure where the cut off for engine failure and replacement is or if flushing it is even remotely reliable. I'm thinking better safe than sorry.

[JET]

Shoulda bought a 2.4 :D That is honestly what I would do, use the front side parts off that one to build it up. it is not really any harder than a 2.0 build.

[xveganxcowboyx]

I've thought about it and I may do something more extreme with the goodies from the engine currently in my car in the future. I got this at a good price and it's a hopefully inexpensive way to cure the low compression that's been driving me crazy. Not sure if you saw the link, but it's been recently rebuilt so aside from the bottom end damage is hopefully in reasonable shape.

It was funny though. I showed up to buy a couple pieces of side molding and went home with an engine in the back of my Talon. Who'da thunk it.


Also, I'd rather learn on something cheap, because likely as not I'll screw something up. :P

[DBMajik]

I've thought about it and I may do something more extreme with the goodies from the engine currently in my car in the future. I got this at a good price and it's a hopefully inexpensive way to cure the low compression that's been driving me crazy. Not sure if you saw the link, but it's been recently rebuilt so aside from the bottom end damage is hopefully in reasonable shape.

It was funny though. I showed up to buy a couple pieces of side molding and went home with an engine in the back of my Talon. Who'da thunk it.


Also, I'd rather learn on something cheap, because likely as not I'll screw something up. :P

Yes that motor was rebuilt... But it was rebuilt with TOPLINE parts. I'd do a complete rebuild, gaskets, seals, pistons, all of it. But that's just my opinion. Also, I got the coolant overflow from that car. And there was a mud type substance in there, I'd get everything hot tanked just to be safe while you're at it.

[95talonracer]

How much did you get the block for in that condition?

[xveganxcowboyx]

$200 with head, intake mani, TB, Fuel rail and injectors, 90 oil pump housing, etc...


I'd love to go with better rods and pistons, but I'm on a budget here and accepting it will have to be pretty basic. Most gaskets will be replaced with mitsu stuff. I'm planning on TRI-Metal bearings in the bottom end, APR head studs up top, new main studs. Even if I had the $$$ to do the rods and pistons I don't know whether the cylinders were bored. I dunno. This is a lot to tackle without having planned on it and I'm a bit overwhelmed.

[DBMajik]

$200 with head, intake mani, TB, Fuel rail and injectors, 90 oil pump housing, etc...


I'd love to go with better rods and pistons, but I'm on a budget here and accepting it will have to be pretty basic. Most gaskets will be replaced with mitsu stuff. I'm planning on TRI-Metal bearings in the bottom end, APR head studs up top, new main studs. Even if I had the $$$ to do the rods and pistons I don't know whether the cylinders were bored. I dunno. This is a lot to tackle without having planned on it and I'm a bit overwhelmed.


This is a spare block right? Just accumulate parts. After all, you don't need it this second. And while you're replacing those bearings, check out the cylinder walls. You just might need to get it bored anyway. I'm not sayin to buy forged pistons or anything, but I'd take mitsu oem over topline any day.