High battery voltage

[JET]

Yeah, the high voltage can burn up other electrical components too. It is likely the regulator, but I have seen a battery short out and cause the same thing. Alternator is just 10 minutes or so to take out, get it tested.

[iceminion]

If you end up buying a new one/getting a re-manufactured one, tell them you have a 1991 Galant vr4, then you will get a 90 amp alternator instead of the DSM 65 amp one.

this is good if you have subs/high amp stuff

my 2 cents

[DBMajik]

If you end up buying a new one/getting a re-manufactured one, tell them you have a 1991 Galant vr4, then you will get a 90 amp alternator instead of the DSM 65 amp one.

this is good if you have subs/high amp stuff

my 2 cents

If I'm not mistaken, he'll also need a 90 amp fuse for it. We only have 80 amp fuses... I think..

[1slowdsm]

I finally got the alternator out, havent been driving it since Monday when it started to constantly run 18v minutes after starting. I took it into Autozone to get it warrantied and the guy who helped me did a couple quick tests on the machine and he said it passed and tells me it's perfectly fine. Then he says he cant give me a new one 'cause it passed and he'd be losing money if he gave me a new alternator. So I leave and call up the Autozone that I used to work at, talk to the manager and he's like "Yup, you're voltage regulator is going out and they should've warrantied it." And tells me to stop by and they'll give me a new one. Just like that, quick and simple. I sure hope it doesnt turn out to be a shorted battery tho...I'd rather have the alternator go bad than the battery.

[1slowdsm]

Alright, I'm lost again. I got a new alternator, switched it out and took the car for a spin around the block a few times. Now the stereo shuts off and comes back on every couple mins or so and when I park and turn the key into accessories I have no power, besides the usual dash lights, auto-belts dont work, stereo doesnt work. So I take the battery and have it tested at Checker Auto and it's still good. Now I dont know what else to think or check. Any more ideas? I dont wanna go driving and get stuck on the side of the road so I'm gonna recheck everything and hope I find something wrong.

[Swifty1638]

Check your fuses, and etc. You sure the battery is fully charged? Sometimes if it's not fully charged, or the battery cables aren't making good contact with the terminals (fully tight?) then the radio will be in "limp mode" or turn on/shut off constantly.

-A. Swift

[1slowdsm]

I think I found my problem. I found the 80A Alt. fuse blown, so I'm hoping that is it. The battery should be fully charged by now. Got it checked at Checker Auto and it was reading 12v (that should be fully charged, right?). I need to go find an 80a fuse to replace and then I'll see what happens from there.

[Swifty1638]

replace that fuse. Did they test the battery just after it was running? If so, that creates a "peak voltage" that their machine is reading from, and not actually the "real" voltage of the battery. it should be around 12.94v or higher for a healthy battery.

-A. Swift

[1slowdsm]

replaced that fuse and all is good! Woohoo. I think it was that fuse that started it all. I missed it 'cause the part that was blown wasnt really see-able from the plastic window, took the plastic window piece off and it was blown. Guess I had a good alternator in the first place, but now I got a new one free of charge...even better! Ha.
Thanks to all that helped. Much appreciated. This thread can now be deleted if it's gonna be a waste of space.

[tim]

replace that fuse. Did they test the battery just after it was running? If so, that creates a "peak voltage" that their machine is reading from, and not actually the "real" voltage of the battery. it should be around 12.94v or higher for a healthy battery.

-A. Swift

12.6 is a 100% fully charged battery. Like you said, fresh off a charger it will be higher but a 100% charged and stable batt. is 12.6 volts.


Glad you got it figured out though. Electrical gremlins can be a pain in the ass.