1ViciousGSX
06-25-2007, 11:34 AM
In the process of swapping mine in, I thought it would be good to give the details for a 1g install as there is no paper work or spec sheet coming with them. Seems like they are coming from bulk shipments.
I talked personally with A1's tech department concerning proper torque, etc. I was told this specifically;
Use plenty of moly lube on the threads, nuts and washers.
Torque down in stages of 30 ft/lbs,
i.e. 30 ft/lbs, 60 ft/lbs, 90 ft/lbs, then final torque to 105 ft/lbs.
No need to retorque after heat cycles, they are good to go.
As a tip: if you are swapping out ARP's that you may have had to shave the diameter of the washers or nuts down to clear the valve springs, do not re-use them on the A1's. The washers will not slip over the threads. Use the A1 washers, even if you have to take the time to shave them down, no shaving was required for my install. The A1 nuts have a smaller shoulder diameter also, so no shaving was required for my install of them either.
They can be swapped in without having to pull the cylinder head. :wink:
Enjoy. :score010:
I talked personally with A1's tech department concerning proper torque, etc. I was told this specifically;
Use plenty of moly lube on the threads, nuts and washers.
Torque down in stages of 30 ft/lbs,
i.e. 30 ft/lbs, 60 ft/lbs, 90 ft/lbs, then final torque to 105 ft/lbs.
No need to retorque after heat cycles, they are good to go.
As a tip: if you are swapping out ARP's that you may have had to shave the diameter of the washers or nuts down to clear the valve springs, do not re-use them on the A1's. The washers will not slip over the threads. Use the A1 washers, even if you have to take the time to shave them down, no shaving was required for my install. The A1 nuts have a smaller shoulder diameter also, so no shaving was required for my install of them either.
They can be swapped in without having to pull the cylinder head. :wink:
Enjoy. :score010: