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1ViciousGSX
06-25-2007, 11:34 AM
In the process of swapping mine in, I thought it would be good to give the details for a 1g install as there is no paper work or spec sheet coming with them. Seems like they are coming from bulk shipments.

I talked personally with A1's tech department concerning proper torque, etc. I was told this specifically;

Use plenty of moly lube on the threads, nuts and washers.
Torque down in stages of 30 ft/lbs,
i.e. 30 ft/lbs, 60 ft/lbs, 90 ft/lbs, then final torque to 105 ft/lbs.
No need to retorque after heat cycles, they are good to go.

As a tip: if you are swapping out ARP's that you may have had to shave the diameter of the washers or nuts down to clear the valve springs, do not re-use them on the A1's. The washers will not slip over the threads. Use the A1 washers, even if you have to take the time to shave them down, no shaving was required for my install. The A1 nuts have a smaller shoulder diameter also, so no shaving was required for my install of them either.

They can be swapped in without having to pull the cylinder head. :wink:

Enjoy. :score010:

Halon
06-25-2007, 12:41 PM
Nice, so that means you found somewhere that is selling them eh.

1ViciousGSX
06-25-2007, 12:51 PM
Nice, so that means you found somewhere that is selling them eh.
Yes sir I did, THE DEVIL HAD THEM! :nod:

Pushit2.0
06-25-2007, 03:40 PM
I did this also, they are nice studs if you can afford them/get your hands on a set.

EclipseGST
06-25-2007, 04:04 PM
Thanks for the Tq specs Mike... Mine did not come with them either. They are some very nice studs. To bad they cost to damn much!

1ViciousGSX
06-26-2007, 10:41 AM
To bad they cost to damn much!
Now for the average DSM'er $100.00 ARP's are fine. But if you are wanting to turn up the boost to 30-40psi or even higher, then look into the A1's.

I lifted the head at 34 psi and after doing some research I decided to just take care of the problem for good. But I'm sure that anybody could see this happening to them as described below.

In the bigger scheme of things, they could save you money.

Let's see,

ARP headstuds torqued to moly lube spec $100.00
Cometic HP headgasket $120.00
Total $220.00

Head lifts at 30+psi,

retorque ARPs to moly lube spec or 110 ft/lb w/moly lube as recommended by some people (I don't recommend this)
Cometic HP headgasket $120.00
Total $340.00

Head lifts at 30+psi again,

A1 H-11 headstuds torqued to moly lube spec $375.00
Cometic HP headgasket $120.00
Grand Total $835.00 :eek:

Head stays down at 30+psi.

Or you could just bite the bullet the first time around

A1 H-11 headstuds torqued to moly lube spec $375.00
Cometic HP headgasket $120.00
Grand Total $495.00

Which way sounds better? $495.00 or $835.00? :sasmokin:

btw, I fell in between the above examples,

ARP headstuds torqued to moly lube spec $100.00
Cometic HP headgasket $120.00
+
A1 H-11 headstuds torqued to moly lube spec $375.00
Cometic HP headgasket $120.00
Grand Total $715.00 :Flush:

Which way do you think I would have liked better? :rolleyes:

tpunx99GSX
07-03-2007, 01:56 PM
Holy Crap $375 for 10 bolts and nuts. What metal are these made of? Titanium?
What is Moly Lube?

Halon
07-03-2007, 02:05 PM
Moly lube is what you you apply to the "nut" end of the studs when you're installing the head.

Pushit2.0
07-05-2007, 02:43 PM
I would think the A-1 studs are made from L19, ARP has it also but does not make head studs for the DSM with it, they make rod bolts etc.
L-19 : http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechMetals.html
Moly lube to reduce friction : http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html

~John

1ViciousGSX
07-05-2007, 03:17 PM
ARP L19 is the same material the A1's are made from, H-11 tool steel.