Gravy
11-27-2006, 06:55 PM
Ok, some people may remember i was doing a HG a while back on the car, and have been short on cash and time. So the HG is on, belt and everything is installed and the timing is on. First time i started the car up, it didn't want to go, had issues, and would turn over only a few times before dying. Sadly, nothing new for this car. But when the car starts... i've got a bad exauhst leak(boost does't come online till arond 4,000 rpm) and i've delt with this before, and can do so again.
Before when working on the car, disconecting a vacume line on the brake booster on the car would result in the slow stall of the car. Today, out of curiosity i thought i switched up the two lines on the back of the car going to the EGR. So i remove one with the car running, nothing happens. Switched the two lines up and still... nothing. Rough idle and HORRIBLE idle surge. I pull a larger vacume line going to the brake booster and.... nothing happens. Out of curiosity i pull every vacume line from the intake manifold and the car still runs the same. Horrible idle surge and the car's boost guage shows -20 vac(yes, aftermarket). Anyone else scratching their head? It fluxuates normally when the gas is stepped on, rests on dead center zero when turned off and i notice a difference in the acceleration in the car between 10 psi, and 14 psi. When the TPS wire is removed the car no longer idles... but revs very high.
So, i decide i'll follow someone's sugestion to re-set the BISS screwed all the way in, and then work it out to get your desired idle speed. Turns out the screw was all the way out and after screwing in the screw to get around a 850-900. I re-conect the TPS wire and the idle stays the same. After taking the car out for a spin... the fluxuation in the engine or the "Surge" is gone, but it's almost like i'm starved for power untill the car starts to build boost, then takes off just fine. Much like i have a vacume leak or something. All lines are on as the were before, no leaks(carb cleaner check) and still when i pull a vacume line the car still doesn't kill. RPM's drop but it's still doesn't kill.
Would a vaulty installed boost controler cause this issue or possibly a block plate on an EGR valve? Also do i just remove the vacume lines on the EGR and hook them into one another or what? I cant tell if i'm leaking any exauhst on the EGR or not, but it doesn't feel like it when i hold my hand back there.
Any help would be great, and if i forgot anything... im sorry to make you read this much to not have the information you needed...
Before when working on the car, disconecting a vacume line on the brake booster on the car would result in the slow stall of the car. Today, out of curiosity i thought i switched up the two lines on the back of the car going to the EGR. So i remove one with the car running, nothing happens. Switched the two lines up and still... nothing. Rough idle and HORRIBLE idle surge. I pull a larger vacume line going to the brake booster and.... nothing happens. Out of curiosity i pull every vacume line from the intake manifold and the car still runs the same. Horrible idle surge and the car's boost guage shows -20 vac(yes, aftermarket). Anyone else scratching their head? It fluxuates normally when the gas is stepped on, rests on dead center zero when turned off and i notice a difference in the acceleration in the car between 10 psi, and 14 psi. When the TPS wire is removed the car no longer idles... but revs very high.
So, i decide i'll follow someone's sugestion to re-set the BISS screwed all the way in, and then work it out to get your desired idle speed. Turns out the screw was all the way out and after screwing in the screw to get around a 850-900. I re-conect the TPS wire and the idle stays the same. After taking the car out for a spin... the fluxuation in the engine or the "Surge" is gone, but it's almost like i'm starved for power untill the car starts to build boost, then takes off just fine. Much like i have a vacume leak or something. All lines are on as the were before, no leaks(carb cleaner check) and still when i pull a vacume line the car still doesn't kill. RPM's drop but it's still doesn't kill.
Would a vaulty installed boost controler cause this issue or possibly a block plate on an EGR valve? Also do i just remove the vacume lines on the EGR and hook them into one another or what? I cant tell if i'm leaking any exauhst on the EGR or not, but it doesn't feel like it when i hold my hand back there.
Any help would be great, and if i forgot anything... im sorry to make you read this much to not have the information you needed...