Shaky steerling when I hit the brakes?

[A//// Guy]

Its not a band aid. They actually do straighten the rotor out by cutting the high parts past the low spots to make it perfectly flat. How do you think flywheel resurfacing works? Its the exact same process. So using a resurfaced flywheel is a bandaid then?

[Kracka]

Aslong as its a quality rotor like factory, Brembo, Powerslot, etc. then there is nothing wrong with turning it assuming the thickness is still within spec. I wouldn't bother turning a cheapie from a parts store though, they are junk to begin with and very cheaply replaced (the quality of rotors do make a huge difference in braking performance).

[A//// Guy]

Yes I do agree that turning a cheap aftermarket rotor is a waste because it will warp again much faster than a quality unit.

[Matt D.]

Its not a band aid. They actually do straighten the rotor out by cutting the high parts past the low spots to make it perfectly flat. How do you think flywheel resurfacing works? Its the exact same process. So using a resurfaced flywheel is a bandaid then?
I have operated a lathe, I know how turning rotors is done. My point is that when you look a warped rotor the whole thing wobbles, not just the surfaces. A warped rotor that is turned down is just going to warp that much faster. There's also quite a bit more "meat" to a flywheel than a brake rotor, it's not going to warp to the extremity that a rotor would.

[tim]

I agree that you need to have the rotors either turned or replaced but I also think you should look into some front end repair.

If you have slop in your rod ends you should replace them, no questions asked. If you have movement in your rack and pinion you should take care of that too. If you let any of those parts go to long you are just asking for trouble.


As far as replacing or turning your rotors. Turn them if you have enough material left to do so. They arent going to 'warp' any faster then new ones, that is what the 'turn to' spec is there for. If not go to the parts store and buy a new pair. Dont buy the cheapest ones but something in the middle range is probably going to be the equivilant to anything you buy at the dealer.

Oh and for all of you e-mechanics. A rotor with .005" runout is considered out of spec to most manufacturers but will hardly be noticable in the pedal. When you feel your wheel shake after hitting the pedal you are more than likely experiencing 'disk thickness variation.' You can feel DTV if there is as much as .002" variation when measuring thickness in different spots.

[91autoeclipse]

Many techs say if the rotors are warped.. The brake pedal would pulse.. and no my brake pedal do not pulse at all..
Are you guys sure?... If it is the case, Checkers on Brooklyn blvd turn them both for $20.

Yes, it does sound like I have to replace my rack and pinion. It has some play to it, but only when I jack up the car and pull on the wheels.. When I drive it i don't feel any play or fade.
By looking at the Rack&pinion.. It looks like an 6 hour job.. So if someone can help me out, it'll be great..

please advise,
thank you,
tsua

[tim]

Can you see the rack move where it is attacjed to the car or what? If so, can you tighten it down? I havent heard of a DSM having problems with a loose rack.

Check both inner and outer rod ends, wheel bearings, and balljoints. It is much more likely that you have a problem there.

[b00stcreep21]

You need rotors. /Thread

[HiImBrian]

Yes there is no doubt about it that you need new rotors. I'm still waiting for somebody to tell me where i can get new ones for cheap.

[b00stcreep21]

You get what you pay for. You buy cheap rotors from napa/carquest/checker, but they are going to feel like cheap rotors no matter what